Last weekend was the Canadian Thanksgiving, and even though we knew the traffic out into the country would be terrible, we decided to make a trip to see the fall colours.
We weren’t foolish enough to head north into the Laurentians but started heading south towards the Eastern Townships. The traffic was horrendous. So we decided to get off the highway, head to Chambly, and visit the Fortress. Besides, we had our Canada Parks Pass.
Chambly is a cute little town, but our main focus and where we spent the whole afternoon was the fortress. It’s well-designed to present the area's history. We had been there exactly a year ago, but the fortress was closed for renovations.
The Richelieu River, flowing from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence River, played a significant role in the economic and military history of New France and later British North America. Its strategic importance was not only for military defence but also as a critical artery for trade—and, by extension, smuggling.
I was particularly interested in discovering the story behind smuggling in the area. They had a whole wing on the second floor dedicated to that, and it was interactive for kids. I enjoyed it so much that I went through the exercise twice—more on the history of smuggling below.
After completing the exercise inside the Fortress, we walked along the river's grounds. Flocks of seagulls abound, and a large group of Canada Geese were getting ready to migrate south.
We went to where we were last year and saw a white bald-headed eagle sitting atop a tree branch. As we commented on our previous sighting, a large black shadow flew above us, and the gulls took off, but the geese seemed relatively calm. Our bald-headed eagle returned to the same spot we had seen him before.
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In the early afternoon, we headed off to the old town of Chambly to have lunch and walk around a little bit before we headed home. The Old Town, situated along the Richelieu River in Quebec, is steeped in history and charm. It offers a glimpse into Quebec’s colonial past, with its scenic riverside views, well-preserved buildings, and deep connection to French and British colonial legacies. The town grew around Fort Chambly, initially built in the 17th century and vital to the region's defence.
Historical Significance of Champly
Chambly's origins date back to 1665, when the French military established a wooden fort to protect settlers from Iroquois raids and to guard the strategic Richelieu River route. Over time, the town grew around this military post, becoming a bustling community of soldiers, fur traders, and farmers. The construction of the stone version of Fort Chambly in 1711 underlines the area's significance in New France's defence system.
The Seven Years' War and other conflicts between the French and British shaped the region, and Chambly was often caught in these power struggles. After falling to British control in the mid-18th century, the town continued to evolve, with British and French influences blending into its culture, architecture, and economy.
Architecture and Old Town Character
The Old Town of Chambly is known for its quaint, historic homes and streets that follow the curves of the Richelieu River. Many of these homes, dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, are built in traditional Quebecois style with stone foundations, sloped roofs, and dormer windows. These buildings give the Old Town its picturesque charm and showcase how early French settlers adapted their European architectural styles to the harsh Canadian climate.
Walking through the Old Town, visitors will encounter a variety of old stone buildings, including some that were once inns, trading posts, or military barracks. The town's St. Joseph Church, built in the early 19th century, stands as a testament to the town’s religious and community heritage with its modest yet dignified design.
The Chambly Canal
Another key feature of the Old Town is the Chambly Canal, built in 1843 to bypass the Richelieu River rapids. This engineering marvel was vital for commercial trade, as it allowed boats to travel smoothly between the St. Lawrence River and Lake Champlain, connecting Quebec to the markets of New York. Today, the canal is popular for recreational activities, including boating, cycling, and walking along its towpath.
Culture and Events
Today, Chambly is known for preserving its historic character while celebrating its French-Canadian roots. The Old Town hosts events annually that draw on the town's rich history. One of the most popular is the Bière et Saveurs Festival in Fort Chambly's park. This festival celebrates Quebec’s craft beers, local foods, and culinary traditions.
Additionally, the town takes great pride in its heritage walking tours, where visitors can stroll through the Old Town's cobblestone streets, learn about the history of specific buildings, and discover how Chambly evolved from a military outpost to a vibrant riverside community.
Today’s Chambly
Though steeped in history, Old Chambly remains a lively part of modern-day Quebec. Its riverfront views, parks, and historical landmarks make it a popular destination for locals and tourists looking for a charming getaway. The town's restaurants and cafés, many housed in historic buildings, offer an authentic experience of Quebec's food culture, from pâtisseries to fine French cuisine.
The Fortress of Chambly
The Fort Chambly is a historic fort on the Richelieu River in Chambly, Quebec, built to defend New France against British and Iroquois attacks. Originally constructed as a wooden fort in 1665 by Captain Jacques de Chambly, it was part of a more extensive French defence system protecting the region and routes to Montreal. In 1711, the stone fort was erected to replace the deteriorating wooden structure, reflecting the French monarchy's focus on solidifying its hold on North America.
Fort Chambly and Its Role
Fort Chambly, located just a short distance from the Old Town, remains a focal point for visitors. Its commanding presence along the river offers insight into the town’s military history. The fort was central not only in the town's defence but also in controlling river traffic, which included the movement of goods, people, and (as noted earlier) smuggled items. The fort and the town were intertwined, with much of the local economy depending on the soldiers and trade passing through.
The fort's location was strategic. Positioned near rapids that made river travel difficult, it allowed the French to control the flow of goods and military support from the south. This also made it an essential point in the fight between the French and British empires to control the continent. By the mid-18th century, during the Seven Years' War (1756–1763), Fort Chambly fell into British hands, marking a significant turning point in North America's colonial power struggle.
The Fort's Restoration
After falling into disrepair after military use, Fort Chambly underwent significant restoration efforts in the 19th and 20th centuries. By the 1920s, interest in preserving Canada's historical monuments grew, leading to government initiatives to restore the structure.
Archaeological digs revealed the foundations of earlier wooden forts and helped accurately reconstruct certain features. Restoration work aimed to recreate the look and feel of the fort from its height in the early 18th century, maintaining much of its original stonework and design.
Today, Fort Chambly is a national historic site open to visitors year-round. It offers exhibitions about New France’s military history and the fort’s role in the colonial defence network. This beautifully preserved site is also a key example of successful historical restoration in Canada.
Smuggling in Peace and War
During the 17th and 18th centuries, the Richelieu River was a boundary between French-controlled Canada and the English colonies to the south, primarily New York. While officially, the two powers were at odds, economic pressures and demand for goods made smuggling along this river quite prevalent. French merchants in Quebec and Montreal were cut off from official English trade due to wartime restrictions, and they saw opportunities to trade illegally with their British counterparts.
French and British Conflict
The river’s rapids near Fort Chambly created a natural chokepoint where goods moving along the Richelieu could be easily controlled—or, like smugglers, bypassed through hidden routes along the riverbank. These smugglers, known to French and British authorities, transported valuable items like furs, brandy, tobacco, and firearms.
Even during periods of peace, illicit trade flourished. The economies of New France and the British colonies heavily relied on goods that were either scarce or restricted due to political tensions. Smugglers took advantage of the dense forests, twisting river pathways, and a lack of permanent military oversight to move their contraband.
Fort Chambly, initially built to guard against Iroquois raids and later British attacks, became a site for monitoring river traffic. However, local farmers and traders often colluded with smugglers, making enforcement difficult. Goods were hidden in barrels, under legitimate cargo, or overland around crucial control points.
During the American Revolution (1775–1783), the Richelieu River became a significant smuggling route as American forces sought to forge alliances with Canadian settlers, some of whom had economic ties to their southern neighbours. Arms and supplies moved along the river, slipping past British and French authorities.
Fort Chambly's Role in Smuggling
With its garrison, Fort Chambly became a hub for monitoring such activities, but with so many hidden coves and alternate routes, the smugglers often outwitted authorities. After capturing Fort Chambly during the Seven Years’ War, the British used it to control the region better and limit French-Canadian smuggling with the Americans. However, by then, illicit trade had become so ingrained in the economy that it persisted well into the 19th century.
The river’s geography perfectly suited such operations, offering narrow passages for small boats and overgrown banks that concealed illegal activity. Its connection to Lake Champlain further provided easy access to other smuggling networks between Quebec and New York, making it a favoured route for traders willing to risk arrest.
Legacy of Smuggling
Smuggling along the Richelieu River continued long after the colonial period, particularly during the War of 1812 and Prohibition in the 1920s. In both periods, the region's waterways became key routes for those trading contraband, whether military supplies or alcohol.
Today, the Richelieu River's smuggling history is less known than its military legacy, but it played a crucial role in the informal economies of the French and British empires. This highlights how border tensions and resource scarcities shaped everyday life for people living along the river. While significant as a military outpost, Fort Chambly's presence also reflected the challenges of controlling trade and movement through such a critical geographic corridor.
