I’ve been thinking about my oldest friend this week. Joan and I first met at summer camp when we were 11 years old, but it wasn’t until we were both camp counsellors at age 16 that we became good friends.
We’ve never lived in the same city, except for one brief year during grad school. Instead, our friendship has been a patchwork of meetups in random places, stretches of silence, and the occasional emails. These days, it’s mostly a birthday card and an annual email, which is probably why she’s been on my mind lately. We both have our birthdays within 10 days of each other in April. Funny how the quieter friendships can still feel so significant, like a thread you don’t want to lose, even if it’s frayed.
When I think of Joan, I think of escapades. There was always some adventure when we got together, but one of my favorite memories is from our late 20s, when we decided to take a road trip through England and Wales. We rented a car, pointed it west, and let the road decide where we’d go. Somewhere near the Welsh border, we stumbled across the ruins of an old castle, and just like that, we had a theme for the trip: castles. Every time we saw one, we’d stop, climb around, and imagine the lives that had passed through those crumbling walls.
The Game I Refused to Play
Joan, being Joan, wanted to make things even more interesting. “Let’s play—” she started to say, but I cut her off firmly, “No, no, NO.” I knew where this was going. Joan has this uncanny ability to run into people she knows, no matter where she is. It’s like a superpower. She remembers names, faces, and the tiniest details about people; somehow, they usually remember her. I, on the other hand, am terrible at this game. Across the Atlantic, in a country where I had relatives, I still wasn’t about to set myself up for failure.
Of course, Joan didn’t need my permission to win. One morning, at a tiny B&B in Wales, she spotted two people at breakfast who were her parents' friends. I just shook my head. Joan: 1, Me: 0.
Castles, Shrimp, and Seagulls
The details of that trip have blurred over the years, but I remember the feeling of it: the laughter, the freedom, the way the castles seemed to rise out of the mist like something out of a dream. A few years later, I found myself sitting by the waterfront in Stockholm, eating shrimp straight from the fishing boats. I remember thinking how much Joan would have loved it—how we would’ve sat together, tossing shrimp heads to the seagulls and making up stories about the people passing by.
Back to Wales
I wish I could remember more about those castles. After we returned, I bought a book about British castles, but I couldn’t find it on my bookshelf today. Maybe it’s lost, or maybe it’s just hiding, waiting for me to stumble across it like we stumbled across those ruins.
UPDATE:
Joan always had a vivid memory and could recount tales that I had forgotten. I was so happy to hear back from her with the following comment:
I remember that trip so well:
The terrible driving on tiny little roads – how we somehow followed the map into a farmer's field.
The rings we each bought.
How you had daggers for finger nails and put polish on them every night to make them strong.
The sheep!
And so much more.
In the meantime, I turned to AI for a little help, and it reminded me just how magical Wales is for castle lovers. So I resorted to AI to augment this personal story with suggestions on visiting whales.
Wandering Through the Weathered Castles of Wales
Wales is a place where history feels alive. Picture this: the morning mist clings to the hills, sheep dot the landscape like clouds that have come to rest, and in the distance, a castle stands, weathered and proud, as if it’s been waiting for you. With over 600 castles, Wales has more per square mile than anywhere else. Some are grand and restored, but the ones that stay with you are the quiet ruins, where moss grows thick and time feels paused.
Here are a few that might inspire your own adventure:
| Castle | Location | Why It’s Worth the Detour | Accessibility Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Carreg Cennen | Carmarthenshire | A dramatic ruin perched on a limestone cliff. You can see for miles from the top. There's even a spooky tunnel under the castle. | Short steep path from the car park, uneven but manageable with sticks or good shoes. |
| Dinefwr Castle | Llandeilo | Surrounded by ancient deer parkland and wildflower meadows, it’s peaceful and dripping in romantic decay. | Shuttle available to Newton House, then a gentle walk uphill. Benches along the path. |
| Dolbadarn Castle | Llanberis, Snowdonia | Overlooks a glacial lake and Mount Snowdon. Just one craggy round tower remains, but it’s photogenic and evocative. | Car park nearby, short but uneven climb, best in dry weather. |
| Llawhaden Castle | Pembrokeshire | A tucked-away gem with beautiful arched windows and very few visitors. Feel like you discovered it yourself. | Gravel path from car park, mostly level. Quiet spot with picnic tables. |
| Coity Castle | Bridgend | Partially restored with hauntingly beautiful empty halls and hidden staircases. Locals often have it all to themselves. | On the edge of a village, with flat access to most of the ruins. |
| Laugharne Castle | Carmarthenshire | A riverside ruin once home to Dylan Thomas. Linger by the estuary and listen to the poetic quiet. | Paved paths around the site, good signage, and a small museum onsite. |
| Ogmore Castle | Vale of Glamorgan | Next to a shallow river, you can hop across on stepping stones (or watch the kids do it). Horses often graze nearby. | Mostly flat grounds, uneven grass. Magical at golden hour. |
| Strata Florida Abbey (Honorable Mention) | Ceredigion | Not quite a castle, but the atmospheric ruins of a medieval abbey surrounded by hills and Celtic crosses. | Flat, grassy terrain, small visitor centre, gentle ambiance. |
The Wales Ruins & Reverie Series
Three Slow-Travel Castle Journeys Across Three Regions and Seasons
Theme: Ruins, rhythm, and reflection—one trip per season, letting Wales unfold slowly
Trip 1: Spring in South Wales — “Bloom Among the Stones”
Timing: Late April – Early May
Vibe: Wildflowers in bloom, morning mist, the quiet crackle of new life
Region: Carmarthenshire, Pembrokeshire, Vale of Glamorgan
| Base Towns | Highlights | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Llandeilo | Dinefwr Castle, deer park, bluebells in the woods | Wild garlic scents the air; bird song everywhere |
| Narberth/St Davids | Llawhaden Castle, Laugharne, St Govan’s Chapel | Poetic ruins + dramatic coastline = painter’s paradise |
| Bridgend | Ogmore Castle, Coity Castle | Spring lambs in fields, soft evening light, easy coastal walks |
Extras:
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Aberglasney Gardens in full bloom
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Cream teas in sunlit conservatories
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Optional: Add Tenby for sea air and color
Trip 2: Summer in North Wales — “Stone, Sea, and Sky”
Timing: Late June – July
Vibe: Long golden days, lazy lake reflections, hilltop breezes
Region: Snowdonia, Llyn Peninsula, Conwy
| Base Towns | Highlights | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Llanberis | Dolbadarn Castle, Llanberis Lake, Slate Museum | Mornings by the water, cool train rides in the afternoon |
| Porthmadog | Portmeirion, Criccieth Castle | Italian dreams meet Welsh legends; photo-friendly everywhere |
| Aberdaron | Bardsey Island (day trip), cliff paths | Windswept and holy, this is where time sits still |
Extras:
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Slow ferry rides, beach picnics
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Seabirds, poets, and pastel villages
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Optional: Detour to Harlech or Penrhyn Castle (more intact but beautiful)
Trip 3: Autumn in Mid-Wales — “Whispers of Time”
Timing: Late September – Early October
Vibe: Rust-colored bracken, low sun, the smell of woodsmoke and moss
Region: Cambrian Mountains, Ceredigion, Brecon Beacons edges
| Base Towns | Highlights | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Aberystwyth | Strata Florida Abbey, Devil’s Bridge | Golden light in ancient abbey arches, haunting and serene |
| Llanthony | Llanthony Priory, Offa’s Dyke walk | Stay in a cloister, write in a pub, drink ale with ghosts |
| Crickhowell | Tretower Court & Castle | Lesser-known, elegant ruins with storytelling charm |
Extras:
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Vale of Rheidol Railway through fall colors
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Evening fireside readings or journaling
-
Optional: Stay in a converted shepherd’s hut or farmstay
You won’t find velvet ropes or souvenir shops in these places. What you’ll find is silence, wind, and stone—great companions for anyone looking to wander through history at their own pace. Bring a thermos. Pack a tartan blanket. Let your day unfold by instinct rather than schedule.
